Hôtel du Couvent, Nice

In short… The most thoughtful and sensitive renovation of a 17th-century convent in the heart of Nice’s Old Town that’s not only the nicest place to stay, but the Hôtel du Couvent is already a destination in itself 

The backstory… It was 10 years ago that the mayor of Nice reached out to hotelier Valéry Grégo, as he was seeking a visionary who would take on this historic city landmark that was last operational in the ‘80s, when it was occupied by the Order of the Visitation of Holy Mary (who had been there since 1803!). It was actually constructed by the nuns from the Order of Saint Claire in 1604, using local materials—most of it repurposed from a neighboring chateau. The mayor dreamed of giving this beautiful city a destination hotel that people of great taste and influence would flock to, rather than using Nice solely as the springboard to everywhere else on the coast and Provence. Valéry, the pioneering hotelier behind properties like Les Roches Rouges and Le Pigalle, was the perfect match for reimagining this convent and, over the course of 10 years, meticulously restoring its buildings and 2.5 acres of gardens, opening as the Hôtel du Couvent in June of this year.

The vibe… I found the level of thoughtfulness, care and passion that Valéry and his collaborators (including Studio Mumbai and Festen Architecture) brought to reimagining this space—both to honor the past in the original design details while connecting guests and the community to it in a deeper and more experiential way—to be so inspiring. Things like reviving the centuries’ old herbalist shop founded by the nuns and bringing in resident herbalist Gregory Unrein, who offers thoughtful advice and custom-made remedies like teas and tinctures using herbs from their garden. A hotel with an herbalist?! There are also plans to create a farmers’ market on Saturday mornings in the courtyard for guests and locals alike.

The rooms… There are 88 rooms and suites that are thoughtfully curated, with impeccable taste. We stayed in two different rooms—the first had views over the old town and to the sea, and the second room had an outdoor terrace and looked out over the courtyard. All the rooms are furnished with a blend of custom pieces and period antiques, along with clever books and beautiful barware in the minibar. The packaging of their bath products, their stationery—all so tasteful. Even the Do Not Disturb/Clean my Room medallions on ribbons are so good. It’s a hotel where you really have to practice serious self control to not want to walk off with all the little details. (Take the stationery and the body lotion!) 

Food and drink… We arrived at cocktail hour, so our first introduction to their food program was via the bartenders Max and Pierre, both who were knowledgeable, sweet, and made excellent martinis and Negronis. All of our meals were exactly what we love to eat and can somehow never manage to get in most nice hotels—the best ingredients, with minimal intervention—just letting the food speak for itself. The dishes, like the marinated sardines with roasted red pepper and a pea tart, are inspired by the location and the seasonality. The hotel has a farm about an hour away where they grow much of what they cook, and keep some 250 chickens as well. There is an on-site bakery, set within the convent’s former bakery—even the flour is freshly milled daily. There are two restaurants, and a bistro is coming soon. One of the nicest touches is the parting gift, their homemade madeleines in the cutest little waxed bag. 

The wellness… The wellness space (decidedly not called a spa!) draws on ancient Roman bathing traditions, with multiple pools at different temperatures. They will offer massages incorporating oils selected by Gregory the herbalist, and there will be a movement studio (not a gym!). There’s also a lovely lap pool with views over the city and to the Mediterranean beyond. It’s such a dream—a real oasis within the city. 

Be sure to… Walk into town to the Cours Saleya, which has either a food or an antiques market, depending on the day, and then to the beach. The hotel has a relationship with a beach club and can make arrangements if you want to have a full beach day. I also love walking up and over Castle Hill, down to the old port, and wandering in and out of all the little antiques shops.

Parting words…I’d come here for a weekend getaway, no matter where it was in the world, and no matter the season. It’s probably the most soulful project I’ve witnessed—a real love story to a place—and it’s so rare to be able to experience a place through this lens. 

Date of stay… June 17-19, June 22-23, 2024